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Letters from Lodi

An insightful and objective look at viticulture and winemaking from the Lodi
Appellation and the growers and vintners behind these crafts. Told from the
perspective of multi-award winning wine journalist, Randy Caparoso.

Randy Caparoso
 
November 4, 2024 | Randy Caparoso

What is Lodi terroir? (Part 5, Where to find terroir focused Lodi wines)

Winter pruning in Clements Hills-Lodi's Stampede Vineyard which has become a favorite Zinfandel source among small, handcraft terroir focused producers because of the growth's penchant for high acidity, moderate weight and ringing berry perfumes.

Continued from What is Lodi terroir? (Part 4, How terroir focused wines are made)

Lodi grown wines that prioritize sensory qualities expressing terroir or "sense of place"—be it a specific vineyard or an appellation or sub-appellation (i.e., an AVA within an AVA)—over varietal character or brand style are now more numerous than you may think. 

For the most part, terroir focused producers are on the small, artisanal side, with rare exceptions—such as the nationally distributed Mettler Family Vineyards and Klinker Brick Winery brands, which produce handcraft, native yeast fermented, neutral oak aged Zinfandels as a way of showing off historic old vine properties, in stark contrast from their commercial style releases.

Marchelle Wines' Greg La Follette—a Sonoma based vintner famed for pure, terroir driven, native yeast fermented wines—sampling ancient vine Lodi Zinfandel just before harvest.

Finally, not all terroir focused brands practice native or wild yeast fermentations. For example, Lodi's Acquiesce Winery & Vineyards ferments with cultured yeasts, yet their wines very much express the natural qualities of mineral, floral and fresh fruit profiles specific to their Mokelumne River-Lodi estate, primarily for three reasons: 

1. They eschew oak aging altogether (all wines released after only a short time in stainless steel tanks in which they are fermented).
2. They specialize in varietals and blends made from estate grown white Rhône varieties (perfectly suited to Lodi's Mediterranean climate).
3. Their vineyard is meticulously farmed by sustainable and regenerative methods; grapes picked at lower sugars and high enough acidity⏤necessitating minimal manipulation in the winery and resulting in moderately weighted, crisp fruit profiles. 

In similar fashion, Bokisch Vineyards⏤California's leading specialist in Spanish varieties, also ideally suited to Lodi's Mediterranean climate⏤ferments primarily with cultured yeasts, yet their vineyard-designate wines are remarkably distinctive in their sense of place, primarily because of the winery's restraint when it comes to grape picking decisions (the winery controls 100% of their own vineyards) and oak aging.

Acquiesce Winery vigneron (i.e., winemaker/vineyard manager) Christina Lopez.

That said, a good list of current releases for wine lovers who are interested in tracking down Lodi grown wines that are meant to taste more like where they come rather than the commercial expectations of varietal wines that could come from anywhere:

2023 Acquiesce Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi Picpoul Blanc ($36.50)
2023 Acquiesce Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi Grenache Blanc ($36.50)
2023 Acquiesce Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi Bourboulenc ($36.50)
2023 Acquiesce Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi Clairette Blanche ($36.50)
2023 Acquiesce Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi Viognier ($43.50)
2023 Acquiesce Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi Ingénue (Clairette blanche/Grenache blanc/Bourboulenc/Piquepoul; $43.50)
2023 Acquiesce Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi Belle Blanc (Roussanne/Grenache blanc/Bourboulenc; $43.50)

2023 Anaya Vineyards, Potrero Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Albariño ($32)
2021 Anaya Vineyards, Potrero Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Semi-Carbonic Tempranillo ($36)
2019 Anaya Vineyards, Potrero Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Tempranillo ($42)
2019 Anaya Vineyards, Potrero Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Nebbiolo ($48)

2022 Avivo Wines, Ledbetter Family, Clements Hills-Lodi White Wine (Vermentino; $24) 
2021 Avivo Wines, Ledbetter Family, Clements Hills-Lodi Red Wine (Sangiovese; $24)

2020 BIRICHINO, Bechthold Vineyard, Lodi Cinsaut ($29)
2022 BIRICHINO, Mule Plane Vineyard, Lodi Carignan ($25) 

2023 Bokisch Vineyards, Terra Alta Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Albariño ($26)
2023 Bokisch Vineyards, Family Estate, Mokelumne River-Lodi Albariño ($31)
2023 Bokisch Vineyards, Vista Luna Vineyard, Borden Ranch-Lodi Garnacha Blanca ($29)
2020 Bokisch Vineyards, Terra Alta Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Graciano ($35)
2020 Bokisch Vineyards, Terra Alta Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Garnacha ($35)
2021 Bokisch Vineyards, Liberty Oaks Vineyard, Jahant-Lodi Tempranillo ($37)

2023 Box Wine Co., "Hills and Valley" Mokelumne Glen Vineyards, Mokelumne River-Lodi Kerner ($25)

2022 Christopher Cellars, Clements Ridge Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Dolcetto ($28)
2022 Christopher Cellars, Sprague Family Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Cinsault ($30)
2022 Christopher Cellars, Lodi Sangiovese ($32)
2022 Christopher Cellars, Mule Plane Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Carignan ($38)

Harney Lane Winery owner/grower/winemaker Kyle Lerner with his multiple small lots of Zinfandel growths.

2020 Enfield, Abba Vineyard Lodi Grenache ($36)

2021 Fields Family, Fields Family Estate, Mokelumne River-Lodi Grenache Blanc ($25)
2021 Fields Family, Fields Family Estate, Mokelumne River-Lodi Vermentino ($25)
2022 Fields Family, Bechthold Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Cinsaut ($30)
2020 Fields Family, Fields Family Estate, Mokelumne River-Lodi Syrah ($30)
2020 Fields Family, Stampede Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Zinfandel ($30)
2020 Fields Family, Fields Family Estate, Mokelumne River-Lodi Tempranillo ($30)

2021 Found Wine Co., Somers Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Mission ($30)

2023 Friendly Noise, Mokelumne Glen Vineyards, Mokelumne River-Lodi Bacchus ($25)

2020 Haarmeyer Wine Cellars, Cresci Vineyard, Borden Ranch-Lodi Chenin Blanc-Moelleux ($30)
2023 Haarmeyer Wine Cellars, Mokelumne Glen Vineyard, Victor Weisser, Gemischter Satz ($28)
2023 Haarmeyer Wine Cellars, "Blau-Blau" Mokelumne Glen Vineyard, Blaufränkisch ($33)
2022 Haarmeyer Wine Cellars, Potrero Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Nebbiolo ($26)
2019 Haarmeyer Wine Cellars, Stampede Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Zinfandel ($38) 

2022 Harney Lane Winery, Scottsdale Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Chardonnay ($32)
2021 Harney Lane Winery, Scottsdale Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($42)
2021 Harney Lane Winery, Lizzy James Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($45)

2019 Hatton Daniel, Mokelumne Glen Vineyard, Lodi Blaufränkisch ($24)
2019 Hatton Daniels, Mokelumne Glen Vineyard, Lodi Rosé of Dornfelder ($24)
2018 Hatton Daniels, Mokelumne Glen Vineyard, Lodi Zweigelt ($24)

Lorenza Wine's Melinda Kearney, who began as a rosé specialist but who now produces terroir focused minimal intervention style reds from old vine Cinsaut as well as Carignan. Lorenza Wine.

2021 Iconic, "Myriad" Clements Hills-Lodi Cinsaut ($25)
2021 Iconic, "Old Gods" Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($28)

2020 Kareen Wine, Lodi Viognier ($20)
2022 Kareen Wine, Bechthold Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Cinsaut ($36)

2023 Klinker Brick Winery "Echoes," Mokelumne River-Lodi "Native" Zinfandel ($45)

2021 LangeTwins Family, Redtail Vineyard, Jahant-Lodi Nero d'Avola ($34)
2021 LangeTwins Family, Redtail, Jahant-Lodi Red Bland (Ancellotta/Nero d'Avola/Primitivo; $38)

2022 Little Trouble Wine Co., Heritage Field Blend Red, Clements Hills-Lodi (Zinfandel/Mission/Mourvèdre/Alicante Bouschet/Flame Tokay; $36)

2020 Lodi Native (by Maley Bros.), Wegat Vineyard (Zinfandel; $35)

2023 Lorenza Wine, Clements Hills-Lodi Picpoul Blanc ($30)
2022 Lorenza Wine, Mokelumne River-Lodi Carignan ($36)
2023 Lorenza Wine, Bechthold Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Cinsaut ($36)

2018 The Lucas Winery, "ZinStar" Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($61)

2022 Lucid, "L.02 Urban Flora," Lodi Mission Rosé ($23)
2021 Lucid, "L.10 The Lover," Picpoul Blanc ($28)
2022 Lucid, "L.17 Flying Lesson," Albariño ($28)
2022 Lucid, "L.23 Freya's Tears," Viognier ($28)

Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel cluster from ancient vines (over 100 years old)—the very reason why wines made from these vineyards should express terroir rather than varietal character with no sense of place.

2022 Maître de Chai, "Buckaroos" Stampede Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Rosé of Zinfandel ($28)
2022 Maître de Chai, Stampede Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Zinfandel ($34) 
2023 Maître de Chai, Lodi Red Table Wine (Zinfandel/Grenache, $25)

2020 Marchelle, 1900 Block, Mokelumne River-Lodi Carignan ($48)
2020 Marchelle, Bechthold Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Cinsaut ($54)
2020 Marchelle, Lodi Family Cuvée Red (Carignan/Cinsaut/Zinfandel; $48)
2020 Marchelle, Royal Tee Block, Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($48) 

2022 Markus Wine Co., Mokelumne Glen Vineyards, Lodi "Nativo" (Kerner/Bacchus/Riesling; $25)
2023 Markus Wine Co., North River Vineyards Block 3 Lodi Grüner Veltliner ($25)
2023 Markus Wine Co., Lodi "Nimmo" (Gewürztraminer/Sauvignon Blanc/Grüner Veltliner ($25)
2021 Markus Wine Co., Lodi "Ancient Blocks," The Church (Carignan/Petite Sirah/Alicante Bouschet; $41)
2022 Markus Wine Co., "Ancient Blocks" Nicolini Ranch Lodi Carignane ($41)
2021 Markus Wine Co., Lodi "Domo" (Carignan/Syrah; $41)
2021 Markus Wine Co., Lodi "Sol" (Petite Sirah/Petit Verdot/Syrah; $41)
2021 Markus Wine Co., Lodi "Zeitlos" (Syrah/Zinfandel/Petite Sirah; $41)
2021 Markus Wine Co., Lodi "Blue" (Petit Verdot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec; $41)

Most of the original Lodi Native vintners and growers whose native yeast fermented,neutral oak aged Zinfandels, starting in 2012, exerted a tremendous influence on the evolution of terroir focused wines in Lodi.

2020 McCay Cellars, Estate Mokelumne River-Lodi Tempranillo ($28)
2019 McCay Cellars, Faith Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($32)
2019 McCay Cellars, Bonotto Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($35)
2017 McCay Cellars, TruLux Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel Reserve ($40)
2019 McCay Cellars, Bechthold Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Cinsault ($40)

2020 Mettler Family Vineyards, Steacy Ranch, Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($38)
2020 Mettler Family Vineyards, HGM Ranch, Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($38)

2023 Monte Rio Cellars, Mokelumne River-Lodi French Colombard ($24)
2023 Monte Rio Cellars, "The Bench" Clements Hills-Lodi Vermentino ($24)
2023 Monte Rio Cellars, Alta Mesa-Lodi Chenin Blanc ($25)
2022 Monte Rio Cellars, "Chandler' Mokelumne River-Lodi Flame Tokay ($29)
2023 Monte Rio Cellars, "Somers" Mokelumne River-Lodi Mission ($24)
2023 Monte Rio Cellars, "Silva" Alta Mesa-Lodi Mencía ($24)
2022 Monte Rio Cellars, "River's Edge" Mokelumne River-Lodi Sangiovese ($25)
2022 Monte Rio Cellars, "Jessie's Grove" Mokelumne River-Lodi Carignan ($25)
2022 Monte Rio Cellars, "Teresi" Mokelumne River-Lodi Petite Sirah ($25)
2021 Monte Rio Cellars, Teresi Vineyard (Zinfandel/Petite Sirah; $26)
2022 Monte Rio Cellars, Lodi "Carbonic" Zinfandel ($25)
2022 Monte Rio Cellars, "Faith" Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($27)
2022 Monte Rio Cellars, "Marian's" Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($27)
2021 Monte Rio Cellars, "Royal T" Mokelune River-Lodi Zinfandel ($29)

Maître de Chai's Marty Winters, who with partner Alex Winters has been handcrafting restrained, contemporary style Zinfandels from Lodi's Stampede Vineyard, a Clement's Hills vineyard tucked along the Mokelumne River, marked by exceptionally fine sandy loam soil.

2021 Neyers Vineyards, Sage Canyon California Red Wine (Carignan/Mourvèdre/Grenache; $33)
2020 Neyers Vineyards, Vista Notre, California Zinfandel ($30)

2023 Pax Winery, The Bench Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Vermentino ($34)
2022 Pax Winery, The Bench Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Syrah ($46)

2020 Peltier Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi Native Zinfandel ($30)
2017 Peltier Winery, Schatz Family Reserve Barrel Select St. Clements-Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon ($60)
2018 Peltier Winery, Schatz Family Reserve Mokelumne River-Lodi Teroldego ($60)

2022 Perch Wine Co., Lodi Kestrel Red (Carignan/Zinfandel/Cinsaut/Petite Sirah; $25)
2023 Perch Wine Co., Viñedos Aurora Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Petite Sirah ($28)
2023 Perch Wine Co., Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($30)

2023 Perlegos Family, Thera Block, Clements Hills-Lodi Assyrtiko ($29)
2023 Perlegos Family, Grecque de Pied, Mokelumne River-Lodi Assyrtiko ($30)
2022 Perlegos Family, Lodi Red Wine Blend (Merlot/Cinsaut/Carignan; $28)
2021 Perlegos Family, Sprague Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Cinsaut ($28)
2023 Perlegos Family, Stampede Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Zinfandel ($32) 
2022 Perlegos Family, Fernow Ranch, Mokelumne River-Lodi Nero d'Avola ($35)

2019 Precedent Wine, Spenker Ranch, Mokelumne River-Lodi Carignan ($28)
2019 Precedent Wine, Kirschenmann Vineyard, Mokeumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($28)

Trellised Zinfandel in the Stonum estate, produced in a minimal intervention style to express a particular floral red fruit profile unique to the east side of Lodi's Mokelumne River appellation.

2022 PRIE Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi Grenache ($29)
2022 PRIE Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi Picpoul Blanc ($31)
NV PRIE Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi "Ousness" (Cabernet Sauvignon/Mourvèdre; $35)
2022 PRIE Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi "Notes in the Margin" (Mencía/Prieto Picudo; $33)
2021 PRIE Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi "Old Man Zin" ($35)
2021 PRIE Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi Counoise ($33)
2021 PRIE Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi Prieto Picudo ($35)
2021 PRIE Winery, Mokelumne River-Lodi Mencía ($39)

2022 St. Amant, Lodi Barbera ($24)
2022 St. Amant, Mokelumne River-Lodi Alicante Bouschet ($24)
2022 St. Amant, Lodi Heritage Red (Zinfandel/Petite Sirah/Alicante Bouschet; $26)
2022 St. Amant, Marian's Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Reserve Zinfandel ($40)

2022 Trail Marker "Kid Sister," Mokelumne Glen Vineyard, Lodi Blaufränkisch ($30)
2022 Trail Marker "Kid Sister," Mokelumne Glen Vineyard, Lodi Zweigelt ($30)
2021 Trail Marker "Kid Sister," Mokelumne Glen Vineyard, Lodi Kerner ($30)
2023 Trail Marker "Kid Sister," Mokelumne Glen Vineyard, Pétillant Naturel of Blaufränkisch ($30)

2022 Sabelli-Frisch,, "Bund" Mokelumne Glen Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Riesling ($27)
2022 Sabelli-Frisch, "Biograph" Shergill Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Picpoul ($30)
2022 Sabelli-Frisch, "Milk Fed 9," Mokelumne River-Lodi Mission Rosé ($27)
2022 Sabelli-Frisch, "Lanterna" Blodgett Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Flame Tokay ($32)
2020 Sabelli-Frisch, "Milk Fed 7," Chandler Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Flame Tokay ($35)
2020 Sabelli-Frisch, "Marina," Somers Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Mission ($29)
2020 Sabelli-Frisch, "Hernan," Somers Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Mission ($35)
2023 Sabelli-Frisch, "Inedal," Jacob's Two Acres Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($32)
2022 Sabelli-Frisch, "Biograf" Knowles Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Syrah ($35)

Winemakers at the Lodi Crush facility in Downtown Lodi—representing the Anaya, Kareen, Terah, Sabelli-Frisch and Perch brands—all producing native yeast fermented styles of wine focused primarily on sense of place.

2022 Sandlands, Lodi Cinsaut ($44)
2012 Sandlands, Lodi Red Table Wine (Zinfandel/Carignan/Cinsaut; $38)
2022 Sandlands, Lodi Zinfandel ($40)

2021 Stonum Vineyards, "XI" Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($38)
2020 Stonum Vineyards KMS Collection, "Unbroken" Mokelumne River-Lodi Carignan ($35)

2023 Terah Wine Co., The Bench Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Vermentino ($28)
2023 Terah Wine Co., River's Edge Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Sangiovese ($32)

2023 Turley Wine Cellars, Bechthold Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Cinsaut ($28)
2021 Turley Wine Cellars, Dogtown Vineyard, Clements Hills-Lodi Zinfandel ($50)
2021 Turley Wine Cellars, Kirschenmann Vineyard, Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($50)
2021 Turley Wine Cellars, Steacy Ranch, Mokelumne River-Lodi Zinfandel ($45)
2023 Turley Wine Cellars, Lodi Zinfandel Rosé ($25)

2022 Two Shepherds, Bechthold Vineyard, Lodi Cinsaut ($32)

Marian's Vineyard, an iconic ancient vine Zinfandel growth (planted in 1901) producing one of Lodi's most distinctive wines, native yeast fermented by St. Amant Winery.


  

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