Letters from Lodi
An insightful and objective look at viticulture and winemaking from the Lodi
Appellation and the growers and vintners behind these crafts. Told from the
perspective of multi-award winning wine journalist, Randy Caparoso.
Why Lodi blends are different and more terroir focused than blends grown anywhere else in the country
Sandlands owner/winemaker Tegan Passalacqua pruning 110-year old own-rooted Zinfandel in his Kirschenmann Vineyard.
It is almost funny that blended wines⏤wines made from multiple grapes⏤are so popular these days. For years and years the wine industry has been trying to convince consumers that the finest wines, at least those grown in America, are made from primarily one grape. These are called varietal wines. To be bottled as a varietal wine, according to federal law, a wine must be made from at least 75% of the grape listed on the label (allowing for up to 25% blending of other grapes).
The most popular varietal wines in the U.S. are Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Other popular varietals include Pinot Noir, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc (often bottled as Fumé Blanc), Pinot Grigio (a.k.a., Pinot Gris), and of course here in Lodi, Zinfandel.
Consumers, however, have not been satisfied with just varietal wines. Over the past 10, 15 years blended wines have become one of the country's most popular market categories. Blends are often sold, simply, as "Red Wine" or "White Wine," although most of the popular bottlings are sold under imaginative proprietary names...
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Jan 21, 2025 at 7:00 AM
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Visiting wine journalists on the grape sorting line at Lodi's Bokisch Vineyards.
"Wine, women and song... why reinvent the wheel?" That's the writing on a wall I once saw in Las Vegas' Caesars Palace. While there was undoubtedly wine and singing aplenty in the historical Caesar's era, a little reading shows that the expression first became popular in Germany, during the early 1800s. Aren't you glad you know that?
It is also good to know that through good times and bad, since before the days of the Romans, we have always had wine. It was, I think, Robert Mondavi who pointed out that the civilizing attributes of wine have been known since, well, the beginning of civilization.
Mr. Mondavi was a pioneer of the modern day California wine renaissance. There were numerous others, of course, and their collective impact was so huge that we can now say, here at the start of 2025, that American wines are far, far better than ever before...
Continue »Dispelling myths about wines and foods
Guests enjoying multiple wines during dinner at Lodi's Towne House Restaurant. Jill Means Design.
Let's start off 2025 talking about something a lot of wine geeks seem to have little use for. Wine in the context of food.
Every ten or twenty years, or so it seems, the anti-food factions seem to pop up in the winosphere. Old-timers can even remember back in the 1980s when the famed wine critic Robert Parker used to rail against the very idea of "food wines." That is, lighter, more subtle wines that, theoretically, were made to have higher percentage chance of complimenting a wider range of foods. To Parker, those wines were just poor excuses for weak or uninteresting wines. C'est la vie.
To a certain extent, of course, to be oblivious to wine and food pairing "conventions," as one wine educator recently put it, is to live in your own state of bliss. It's a free country. There is nothing wrong with the “drink-whatever-you-like” approach when it comes to what you put on the table. The way I see it, it's not much different than eating in general: Whenever you’re hungry, just open up a favorite canned food or stop by the nearest fast food joint on the way home...
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